Riverside Walks

The land around Almourol is one of the calmest stretches of the Tagus, and the best way to enjoy it is on foot. The river here is wide and slow, flowing between low banks of poplar, willow, and reeds, and in the middle of it rises the island with the castle of Almourol, a Templar fortress on a rock. The views from the shore change with every few steps, so a gentle walk beside the water gives many angles on the building, from distant silhouette to close-up.

The riverside is flat and easy, with paths and tracks along the bank, so it suits all ages. The surrounding landscape is the Ribatejo, a region of fertile plain where cattle, horses, rice, maize, and vines are raised, and the light on a misty autumn morning can make the whole scene look like a painting. Birds are a pleasure along the way, with herons, egrets, kingfishers, and cormorants fishing in the shallows, and storks nesting on poles and towers. Anglers sit along the bank, and in warm weather small boats and kayaks dot the water.

Both the castle and the walk can be approached from different points. Boats to the island leave from the landing near Tancos on one side, and the village of Almourol on the other has a river beach area and parking. The two places are connected by quiet roads and tracks, and the nearby railway line offers a way to arrive without a car, though the station near Almourol is small and poorly signed, so a map or satnav is helpful. The military area of Tancos is nearby, and visitors should respect any signs marking restricted ground.

The castle has its own opening arrangements. It is reached only by boat, the crossing is short, and the schedule, fees, and days of operation change with the season, so confirm current information before travelling. Water sports such as kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding are offered locally in good weather, and give a view of the walls from the water.

It is also easy to extend the day. The town of Constância, where the Zêzere flows into the Tagus and the poet Camões is remembered, lies a short distance upstream, and Tomar with its Templar convent is within reach by car. Bring water, sun protection, and insect repellent in summer, and a jacket in spring and autumn, when river mist can be cool.

The walk suits photographers, birdwatchers, families, and anyone looking for a quiet day by the river with a medieval castle as the backdrop.