Pegões

Almourol Castle is one of the few Portuguese fortresses that most people recognise at a glance. It sits on a small granite islet in the middle of the Tagus, with the river flowing on both sides, and the tall towers and walls rise directly out of the rock so that the building seems almost a part of it. The picture of the castle surrounded by water, often with mist drifting along the river, is among the best-known images of the Ribatejo.

The castle was rebuilt by the Knights Templar in the 12th century. Their master in Portugal, Gualdim Pais, who also founded the Templar headquarters at Tomar, fortified the island in 1171, and a date of that year is recorded on the building. The aim was to guard the line of the Tagus, a major frontier in the period of the Christian reconquest, and the castle formed part of a chain of strongholds. The site had been used before, with earlier fortifications and traces of earlier occupation, but the present form is largely the work of the Templars.

The structure is compact and clear. An outer wall encircles the island, with towers at intervals, and inside it a second ring of defences protects a central courtyard and the tall keep, which rises at the highest point of the rock. A parade ground, cisterns, and steps lead around the circuit, and from the top of the walls the views take in the river, the plain, and the distant hills. The castle lost its military value in later centuries and fell into ruin, and it was restored in the 20th century.

Legend has long been attached to the place. Stories of knights, enchantresses, and Moorish princesses were told about the island, and it appears in chivalric romances of the 16th century and in later Romantic literature, which helped to create its fairy-tale image. Today it is a popular stop for visitors, and the crossing by small boat from the riverbank is part of the experience.

The nearby village of Pegões is one of the places from which visitors approach the castle area. Access, times, and fees change with the season, so check ahead. Late afternoon, when the light is warm, is the best time for photographs.

The castle suits history readers, photographers, and families who enjoy a short boat trip.