Chalet Da Condessa D'Edla

Hidden in the woods at the western end of Pena Park, the Chalet of the Countess of Edla is a story of love told in timber, cork and paint. It was built in the 1860s by King Ferdinand II of Portugal, the German-born husband of Queen Maria II, for his second wife, Elise Hensler. Elise, a singer of Swiss birth who had made her career in the United States and Europe, met Ferdinand after Maria died, and they married in 1869, the same year the king made her Countess of Edla. The chalet was their private retreat, built in a corner of the park far from the grand palace on the hilltop.

The building is a surprise. Where the Pena Palace is a burst of colour and fantasy, the chalet is deliberately rustic: a two-storey house that imitates an alpine cottage, with a steep roof, wooden balconies and walls clad in painted cork, made to look like logs. The cork, a material that Portugal produces in abundance, gives the exterior a warm brown tone and a slightly toy-like appearance. Bands of ornamental detail and tile decoration add to the effect. Ferdinand, who was a painter and a designer as well as a king, directed the style, and he and Elise lived in the house on summer days, away from court life.

Inside, the rooms are small and homely compared with a palace, and decorated with painted walls and ceilings in imitation of wood and stucco. The furniture, the dining room, the bedrooms and the countess's sitting room preserve the atmosphere of a 19th-century country house, with period objects and decorative details, and the effect is of intimacy rather than grandeur. Over the years, the chalet has needed substantial restoration, so what you see is a careful recreation of the original interiors. A small garden around the house, with ferns, camellias and rustic paths, completes the scene.

Reaching the chalet takes a walk through the park. From the main entrance, paths wind up through forest, past ponds and viewpoints, and the chalet lies a little way from the Pena Palace itself, on the western side. The walk is pleasant but can be steep, and some paths are rough, so wear sturdy shoes. Visitors typically spend half an hour to an hour at the chalet, plus the time to walk there. Entry to the chalet is covered by the park ticket, though it is wise to check the current terms, as hours vary and the building may close for a break at midday. Because of the narrow rooms, numbers are limited at times.

The chalet is a good contrast to the busy sights elsewhere in Sintra, and it is often quieter than the palace. Sintra's weather is changeable, so bring a layer. It combines well with a visit to the nearby Convento dos Capuchos and the Cruz Alta viewpoint, and suits anyone who likes romantic stories and unusual buildings.