Initiation Well (Sintra)

The Initiation Well, the Poço Iniciático, is the most famous feature of Quinta da Regaleira, the extraordinary garden and palace on the edge of Sintra. It is a circular shaft cut into the hillside, about 27 metres deep, with a spiral staircase that winds down along its walls in nine flights, each divided by a landing and lined with arches. Looking down from the top, you see the staircase curve away into darkness, and at the bottom a compass rose, set in the floor, marks a cross of the Knights Templar. It is a sight that is both beautiful and slightly dizzying.

The well belongs to the estate created in the early 20th century by António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, a wealthy Portuguese collector who had made his fortune in Brazil in coffee and gems. He commissioned the Italian architect and stage designer Luigi Manini to design the palace and gardens between 1904 and 1910, and the result is a theatrical fantasy in which Gothic, Manueline, Renaissance and Romantic motifs are mixed together, with chapels, towers, grottoes, terraces and hidden paths. The well, though called an initiation well, was not a real well and never held water. It was designed as an inverted tower, a descent into the earth, and the design is full of symbols drawn from alchemy, Freemasonry, the Templars and Rosicrucian traditions, which Monteiro studied.

Legends say that secret initiation ceremonies were held here, in which candidates descended through the spiral as a symbolic journey toward enlightenment. There is, however, no firm evidence that any rituals took place, and historians treat the story as local lore rather than fact. The nine landings are often linked with the circles of Dante's Divine Comedy, though this too is interpretation. What is certain is that Monteiro was fascinated by the esoteric, and that the well fits his taste for mystery and spectacle.

At the bottom, the path leads into a network of tunnels cut into the rock, some dark and damp, which connect to other parts of the garden, among them a small lake with stepping stones and a waterfall. Using the tunnels is part of the fun, but they are narrow and slippery, so mind your footing and be prepared for dim light. There is also a second, unfinished well nearby, which has straight stairs rather than a spiral.

The well is inside the Quinta da Regaleira, so entry requires a ticket for the estate. It is busy, particularly in summer, and queues can form to descend, so go as early as possible. Allow at least two hours for the whole quinta. Wear shoes with good grip and bring a light jacket, since the well and tunnels are cool and damp. The visit suits anyone with an interest in architecture, symbolism and legend, and children often love the tunnels.