Quinta Da Regaleira

The Quinta da Regaleira is the strangest and most theatrical of Sintra's estates, a palace and garden created in the early 20th century as a personal fantasy. It was built between 1904 and 1910 for António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, a wealthy Brazilian-born collector who made his fortune in coffee and gems and was known as Monteiro dos Milhões, Monteiro the Millionaire. The designer was the Italian architect and stage designer Luigi Manini, who had worked at La Scala in Milan, and his theatrical approach shows in every corner. The estate lies close to the centre of Sintra, a short walk from the National Palace, and covers about four hectares of steep wooded hillside.

The palace is a Gothic and Manueline composition of towers, turrets, and carved stone, in which medieval and Renaissance motifs are freely mixed. A small chapel in the grounds has painted ceilings and mosaic floors, with a crypt below. But the garden is the real draw. Winding paths lead through dense vegetation of ferns, camellias, and moss-covered rocks, past lakes, waterfalls, and grottoes, with towers and terraces at turns of the path that give views over the roofs of Sintra. The garden is full of symbolism, drawn from alchemy, the Knights Templar, Freemasonry, and the Rosicrucians, much of it speculative, which gives the whole place an air of mystery and invites visitors to read its meanings.

The most famous feature is the Initiation Well, a spiral stairway that winds nine levels down into the earth, with a compass rose set in the floor at the bottom. Some say the nine levels recall the circles of Dante's Inferno, or stages of initiation. Walkers descend the steps and emerge through tunnels, some lit and others dark, into the surrounding gardens, and children love the adventure. A second, unfinished well is also open. Other tunnels link grottoes and a waterfall pool, and stepping stones cross the water.

The estate is a place to explore at leisure. The tunnels are dark and uneven, and the steps and paths are steep and often wet, so wear shoes with good grip and bring a small torch or use a phone light. It is popular, so arrive early on summer days. The estate is part of the UNESCO-listed cultural landscape of Sintra, and opening hours and ticket prices vary, so check before going.

It suits families, photographers, and anyone who enjoys mystery and architecture.