Carvoeiro Beach

Carvoeiro Beach is the small, sheltered cove at the centre of the former fishing village of Carvoeiro, in the municipality of Lagoa on the central Algarve coast. It is hemmed in by golden limestone cliffs, and the white houses of the village climb the slopes above the sand, so that the whole scene resembles a natural amphitheatre facing the Atlantic. The beach is small, and in high summer it fills up, but its setting is among the most photographed on the coast.

The village's name is usually linked to the charcoal burners who once worked here, though fishing was the livelihood that shaped the place. Fishing boats were drawn up on this sand until tourism took over, and a few traditional boats still rest at the edge of the beach. Old fortifications and small chapels overlook the cove from the cliffs. Steps and ramps from the village lead down to the sand, so access is easy from the centre, and cafes and restaurants with sea-view terraces are right beside the beach.

The water here is calm and clear, which is why families like the beach. Sunbeds and umbrellas can be rented, and a lifeguard is on duty in season. Snorkelling is rewarding around the rocks at either end of the cove, where small fish gather in the shallows. If you want to see more of the coastline, boat trips leave from the beach and from nearby harbours to visit the sea caves and arches that the soft limestone has produced over time. Kayaks and paddleboards are also for hire.

A boardwalk and cliff paths link the cove with its neighbours. Heading east, the walk to Algar Seco, a set of eroded rock formations with a staircase and viewpoints, takes about 20 minutes or so, and beyond that lie Praia do Paraíso and other small beaches. The Carvoeiro Boardwalk, a seafront path, extends the walk. Further along the coast, Benagil Cave and Praia da Marinha, two of the best-known sights in the Algarve, are a short drive away. The village makes a useful base for exploring this stretch, and it has a good choice of restaurants where grilled fish, cataplana and local wine are standard.

Come early in the morning or in the evening if you want space and softer light. In July and August, parking in the village is difficult, and walking down from a hotel or apartment is easier. The beach is open to the public at all hours and free to use, though facilities such as sunbeds charge a fee. It suits families, couples and anyone who wants a beach with the amenities of a village right behind it, rather than an isolated stretch of sand.