Castelo De Linhares Da Beira (Castle)

Linhares da Beira is a granite village perched on the north-western slopes of the Serra da Estrela, at around 800 metres, and its castle sits on a rocky outcrop above the houses. From the walls, the view takes in the broad Mondego valley, the plains below and the long wall of the mountains behind. It is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in the Beira region, and it forms part of the network of Aldeias Históricas, historic villages of Portugal, which includes Linhares.

The fortress dates from the early centuries of the Portuguese kingdom. The site was a strategic point on the route between the mountains and the plain, and it was part of the chain of defences that held the frontier region in the 12th century, when the new kingdom was fighting to establish itself. The castle has Romanesque origins, with Gothic additions made later, and the combination of thick stone walls, narrow openings and the stout keep is typical of the period. Its position, with granite blocks forming part of the walls, makes it blend with the rock beneath.

The layout is easy to follow. Two walled enclosures, one inside the other, surround the interior, and four gates give access through the walls. The keep, the main tower, rises above the inner enclosure, and a separate clock tower marks the village's timekeeping. A walk along the ramparts gives the best views over the roofs of Linhares and the valley, and a short wander around the paths at the base of the walls adds different angles. The site is open during the day, with a lunch break, and entry has been free in recent years, though it is wise to confirm opening hours locally.

The village is as worthwhile as the castle. Narrow cobbled lanes lead between granite houses, with outside staircases, carved doorways and coats of arms. There is a pillory in the main square, a small parish church and a few cafes and craft shops. Linhares is also known as one of the main paragliding and hang-gliding locations in Portugal, thanks to the steady winds and the open slopes below the village, and you may see colourful wings drifting over the valley on good days.

The region is also known for Serra da Estrela cheese, smoked meats and hearty mountain cooking, and local restaurants serve roast kid, bean stews and soft sheep cheese. Weather can change quickly at this altitude, and in winter, cold and fog are common, so bring layers. The paths around the castle are uneven, so wear sturdy shoes. The castle and village suit history lovers, photographers and anyone exploring the Serra da Estrela region by car, and they combine well with Celorico da Beira and Guarda.