Estoril Golden Beaches

Estoril is the elegant end of the coast west of Lisbon, a seaside resort that has been welcoming the rich and famous for over a century. The Portuguese Riviera, as the stretch between Estoril and Cascais is sometimes called, is where the capital's aristocracy built villas and where, during the Second World War, exiled royals from half of Europe took refuge. The beaches here are modest in size but easy to reach, and they form the backdrop to a long promenade that links Estoril with Cascais.

The best known is Praia do Tamariz, a golden-sand beach in front of the town centre, below the gardens and the casino. It is sheltered by a small breakwater and has calm water compared with the open Atlantic beaches farther north, which makes it popular with families and swimmers. A sea pool, sunbeds and umbrellas for hire, cafes and a bar line the sand, and the facilities are good. The Atlantic water is cool even in midsummer, though less cold than on the more exposed coast to the north, and lifeguards patrol in the season. Neighbouring beaches, among them Praia da Poça and Praia da Azarujinha, are smaller coves with a similar character.

The seafront promenade, the Passeio Marítimo, runs for about three kilometres between Estoril and Cascais, and the walk is the best thing to do here. It passes beaches, fortified headlands, cafes and small harbours, with views of the ocean and the coast, and it is popular with walkers, joggers and cyclists. A cycle path runs alongside, and bicycles can be hired in town. At the Estoril end, the palm-lined Parque do Estoril leads up from the beach to the Casino Estoril, a large complex dating from the 1930s, which was said to have inspired parts of Ian Fleming's first James Bond novel. The casino hosts shows and events and is worth seeing from outside even if you don't gamble.

Getting here is straightforward. Trains from Cais do Sodré in Lisbon run to Estoril in about thirty to thirty-five minutes, with frequent departures, and the station is right across the road from the beach, which makes it an easy day trip. Parking in summer is difficult, so the train is preferable. Estoril also has the racing circuit, which once hosted Formula One races, though it is a few kilometres inland.

Visit in the morning for a quiet swim, or in the late afternoon for the promenade, when the light is soft and the sea is calmer. The beach suits families, couples and those who like a resort atmosphere with easy access. Remember that the sun is strong and the wind can pick up in the afternoon, so bring sun cream and a windbreak.