Foz Do Douro

Foz do Douro is the westernmost part of Porto, where the Douro finally reaches the Atlantic. The name simply means the mouth of the Douro, and the place has long been the city's seaside quarter. It lies about five kilometres from the centre, and the change in atmosphere over that distance is striking: the stone tangle of Ribeira gives way to wide avenues, 19th-century villas, gardens, and a long waterfront that faces open ocean.

A good way to see it is to start at the river. The Passeio Alegre, a garden with a bandstand and old trees, sits just where the estuary widens, and the Forte de São João da Foz stands on the point. This is a 16th-century fort, built to guard the bar of the Douro, whose shifting sand and rocks have long troubled ships. A breakwater, the molhe, extends into the water, and walking along it on a windy day gives a vivid sense of the river meeting the sea. On the other side, the promenade along Avenida do Brasil continues around the headland toward beaches such as Praia dos Ingleses and Praia do Carneiro, where small rocky coves and sand alternate. A pergola near the shore, the Pérgola da Foz, is a pleasant place to sit and look at the Atlantic.

Farther along the coast the Castelo do Queijo, a small 17th-century fort on the rocks, marks the edge of the city beaches. Foz is also one of the easiest places to feel how Porto relates to the ocean: surfers, joggers, cyclists, and families use the promenade at all hours, and in the evening the light over the water is warm and golden.

Getting there can be part of the pleasure. A historic tram line follows the river from near the Infante area to Passeio Alegre, and the ride gives views of the water and the villas along the way. Buses and taxis also run from the city. There are cafés and restaurants along the front serving grilled fish and seafood, and after a walk in the sea air they are a natural stop.

Foz does not have big museums or a single landmark to tick off, and that is its appeal. It suits anyone who wants a slow half-day by the water after the hill climbing in the old town. Bring a jacket, because the wind off the Atlantic can be cool even in summer.