Furnas Lake (Lagoa Das Furnas)

Lagoa das Furnas fills part of the floor of the Furnas caldera in the east of São Miguel, and it is the centrepiece of one of the most scenic valleys in the Azores. The lake lies in the crater of a volcano that is still active, and its shores combine ordinary lake scenery with signs of the heat beneath: steam rising from the ground, bubbling pools, and the sulphurous smell that drifts on the wind. The setting is green and gentle, with wooded slopes rising around the water, and in many weather conditions the lake is wrapped in mist.

The volcanic activity is concentrated on the northern shore, where the Caldeiras da Lagoa, a cluster of fumaroles and hot springs, send up plumes of steam. Here the heat of the ground is used to cook the local speciality, the cozido das Furnas. Pots of meat, sausage, and vegetables are lowered into holes in the warm earth, covered, and left for around six hours, and when they are pulled out the stew is served at lunchtime in the restaurants of the village. Watching the pots being lowered and raised is a highlight for many visitors, and the area around the fumaroles has a lively atmosphere around midday.

On the shore stands a small neo-Gothic chapel, Nossa Senhora das Vitórias, built in the 19th century in a romantic style, with a tall spire and pale stone, which adds a picturesque touch. A path runs around the lake, a walk of several hours through woodland, with views across the water and the hills, and cycling and kayaking are also possible. The water quality of the lake has been affected by farming runoff in recent decades, and blue-green algae sometimes bloom, so swimming is not generally advised, but authorities have worked to improve conditions.

The lake is a short drive or walk from the village of Furnas, and the roads are good, though the weather can change quickly. Mist and rain are common, so bring a jacket, and a clear day gives the best views. Entry is free, and the area is accessible at all times. The lake is easy to combine with the Terra Nostra Garden, the main fumaroles in the village, and the thermal pools.

It suits walkers, families, and anyone interested in volcanic landscapes, and a visit takes one to three hours depending on the activity chosen.