Lagoa Das Furnas

The Lagoa das Furnas fills part of the crater of the Furnas volcano, in the east of São Miguel, and it is the largest of the lakes in this volcanic valley. It lies a short distance from the village of Furnas, with a shoreline of about eight kilometres, and the setting, with wooded slopes rising around it and steam drifting from vents on the far side, is among the most evocative on the island. The colour of its water is a deep green, caused mainly by algae and organic matter, and it varies with the weather and the light.

The lake is a good place to understand how the island works. Furnas is one of three large volcanic centres on São Miguel, and its caldera, formed by past eruptions, is still active, with heat rising beneath the ground. On the north shore, fumaroles and hot springs vent steam and gas, and a patch of ground is warm enough to cook food. This is where the famous cozido das Furnas, a stew of meat and vegetables, is cooked in pots buried in the volcanic soil, and in the morning, you can see the pots being lowered into holes, covered with earth and left for hours. The smell of sulphur is strong near the vents, and the soil is stained in shades of yellow and orange.

On the opposite shore stands a small neo-Gothic chapel, the Ermida de Nossa Senhora das Vitórias, completed in the 1880s by a local nobleman, the Marquês da Praia e Monforte, whose family owned the lakeside estates. Its pale stone and pointed windows are reflected in the water, and it has become one of the best-known images of the island. Swimming in the lake is not recommended, since the water quality is variable because of the nutrients that feed the algae, but you can walk, cycle or take a guided tour along the shore. A path of several kilometres circles the lake, passing through forest and past the vents, and it is generally easy. Kayaks can be rented in season, and fishing is popular.

Viewpoints give another perspective. The Pico do Ferro lookout, above the village, shows the whole lake and the valley, with the roofs of Furnas below, and on a clear day, it is one of the finest views in the Azores. From the same hill, you can see the geometry of the crater and the pattern of fields and forests around it. In the village, the Terra Nostra Park and its thermal pool are a short drive away, and the Caldeiras, the boiling springs, lie in the village centre.

The lake can be visited at any time and is free. Weather often changes quickly, and mist can fill the crater, so be patient. Bring waterproof clothing and shoes with grip. The lake suits walkers, cyclists, photographers and anyone interested in volcanic landscapes and traditional food.