Ria Formosa

Cacela Velha is a tiny village on a low hill at the eastern end of the Ria Formosa, and it is among the most photogenic places in the Algarve. Barely a few dozen people live here, in a handful of whitewashed houses with coloured trims and tall, lace-like chimneys, grouped around a small church and a fort at the edge of the cliff. Below the hill, the lagoon stretches away, a maze of channels, sandbanks, salt marshes, and low islands separated from the open sea by a long strip of sand. The scene is quiet and open, and quite different from the busy resorts of the central coast.

The village is part of the Ria Formosa Natural Park, a protected stretch of lagoon along the south coast, and its position on the hill gives wide views. The best vantage point is the terrace behind the parish church, which looks directly over the water and the sandbars, with the sea beyond. At low tide the flats are exposed and shorebirds gather to feed, and at high tide the lagoon fills with water that shines in the sun. The church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção, a small 16th-century building with a simple facade and Manueline portal, stands on the edge of the cliff, and the little fort beside it was built in the 18th century to defend the coast against pirates and later invasions.

The history of the place is long. Cacela was a settlement in Roman and Islamic times, and it was captured from the Moors in the 13th century. It suffered in the earthquake of 1755, and the village was rebuilt afterwards in a modest way, with the small scale that survives today. Fishermen and shellfish gatherers have been the main occupation, and the lagoon around is rich in oysters, clams, and cockles, which are served in the village's few restaurants.

Below the village, a path leads down to Praia da Fábrica, a quiet beach on the lagoon side of the barrier island. At low tide it can be reached on foot across the sand flats, and at high tide by a small boat. The water is shallow, warm, and calm, and the setting is peaceful.

The village is small enough to see in an hour, and it suits photographers, birdwatchers, couples, and those who enjoy slow travel. Visit in the morning or late afternoon for the light, and expect summer crowds at midday. Parking is outside the village, and the walk in is short.