Typical Santana Houses (Triangular Thatched-Roof Houses)

The thatched houses of Santana are among the most recognisable images of Madeira. Known as casas de colmo, they are small, two-storey cottages with steeply pitched roofs of straw that sweep almost down to the ground on both sides, so that the whole house looks like a triangle with a door and a window in the front. The walls are painted white with bright trim around the doors and windows, in red, blue, and green, and the contrast between the pale walls, the dark thatch, and the green hillside makes them a favourite subject for photographs.

The design has a practical origin. Santana lies on the wet north coast of the island, where heavy rain, wind, and cool, damp air are common, and the thatched roof, made from rye or wheat straw laid in thick layers, sheds water quickly and insulates well. The roof also protects the timber frame beneath, since the walls were traditionally made of wood. A ground floor served as a living room and kitchen, and a small loft above was used as a bedroom or for storing food and tools, reached by a ladder or steep steps. The houses were cheap to build with local materials, and for generations they were the homes of farming families.

Few people live in such houses today, and the number that survive is small. Some are preserved as heritage buildings, others are maintained as tourist attractions or small shops and cafés, and a few new ones have been built in the traditional style. The ones in the town centre are easy to find on foot, and they sit among gardens of flowers and vegetables, on terraces that climb the hill. The Madeira Theme Park, on the edge of Santana, also includes reproductions of the houses and exhibitions on the island's culture, which can be a good complement for families.

Santana is a good base for exploring the north-east of Madeira. The road to Achada do Teixeira, in the municipality, leads to the best-known trail up to Pico Ruivo, the island's highest peak, and the laurel forest and levada walks of the area are within a short drive. The church of Saint Anne in the town centre is a short walk from the houses.

The houses are outdoor sights, open at all times and free to look at, though many are private and should be respected. They suit photographers, families, and anyone interested in vernacular architecture. A visit takes under an hour.