Zona Velha (Old Town)

The Zona Velha is where Funchal began. The settlers who arrived in the early 15th century built their first houses along the shore here, beside the fennel, funcho in Portuguese, that gave the city its name, and for centuries this was the quarter of fishermen, sailors and dockworkers. The streets are narrow, the houses are low and the sea is never far away. Today, it is the most atmospheric part of the city, with restaurants, bars and a remarkable street-art project.

The best-known street is Rua de Santa Maria, which runs along the seafront. Since 2010, an arts project called Arte de Portas Abertas has invited artists to paint the doors of the houses and shopfronts, and the street is now lined with colourful, imaginative panels, some playful and some political, that turn a stroll into a visit to an open-air gallery. Many of the buildings behind the doors are old and a little shabby, which adds to the effect. In the evening, tables spill into the street, and restaurants serve grilled fish, espetada, limpets, and the island's most famous drink, poncha, a mixture of sugar cane spirit, honey and lemon.

Close to the Zona Velha stands the Mercado dos Lavradores, the farmers' market, a handsome Art Deco building of 1940 decorated with blue azulejo panels. Inside, stalls overflow with tropical fruit such as passion fruit, custard apples, bananas and monstera, as well as flowers, spices and vegetables, and women in traditional dress sell flowers at the entrance. The fish section at the back is a lively scene, with huge black scabbardfish and tuna laid on the slabs. The market is busiest in the morning and closes in the afternoon, so go early, and note that opening hours are shorter on Saturdays and the market is generally closed on Sundays.

At the eastern end of the quarter, the small Capela do Corpo Santo, a 15th-century chapel associated with the fishermen, and the yellow Fortaleza de São Tiago mark the edges of the old town. A waterfront promenade links these points and offers views over the harbour. The Sé, Funchal's cathedral, with its Gothic and Manueline features, is a short walk inland, along with the cable car station for the ride up to Monte.

Visiting is simple, since the Zona Velha is free to walk and accessible at any time. Wear comfortable shoes, as the streets are cobbled and some slope. It is lively at night, particularly on weekends, and quieter in the morning. The area suits those who want to see Funchal beyond the hotels, and it combines well with the market, a seafood lunch and a late-afternoon walk along the front.