Azulejo Tilework In Porto

Azulejos, the glazed ceramic tiles of Portugal, cover more of Porto than almost any other city. The word comes from the Arabic for a small polished stone, and the tradition reached Portugal through Spain in the 15th and 16th centuries, when Moorish-style tiles were used for floors and walls. In the 17th and 18th centuries Portuguese workshops developed their own painted panels, usually in blue and white, with religious scenes, hunting parties, and gardens. In the 19th century factories began to produce tiles to cover entire facades, which is why so many ordinary houses in Porto glitter in the sun with patterned fronts in green, yellow, and blue.

The cathedral has some of the oldest large panels in the city. Its cloister is decorated with tile scenes of the 18th century, set in the Baroque style and installed in the late 1720s. Churches often use tiles on the outside as well as the inside, which is unusual elsewhere in Europe. The Igreja do Carmo has a huge blue and white panel on its side wall showing the history of the Carmelite order, added in the early 20th century. The Capela das Almas, a small chapel on Rua de Santa Catarina, has an entire facade covered with tiles in a tale of souls in purgatory, and it is one of the most photographed buildings in the city. The Igreja de Santo Ildefonso, near the Batalha square, has a front covered with thousands of tiles by the painter Jorge Colaço, and the same artist created the large historical panels in the hall of São Bento railway station.

Walking is the best way to find them. Look up as well as ahead, because tiles may sit high on a wall or around a doorway, and look into side streets where tiled houses show different patterns. Shops across the city sell reproductions and modern designs, from single coasters to wall panels, and a few historic factories still produce tiles by hand. The contrast between old and new makes the tradition feel alive rather than museum-bound.

The tiles also have a practical purpose. In Porto's damp, rainy climate they protect walls from moisture and make buildings easier to clean, and in summer they reflect heat. That mixture of beauty and utility explains why they have lasted so long.

A tile walk suits photographers, art and history readers, and anyone interested in design. A route from São Bento station past the Carmo church to Santa Catarina can be done in an hour or two, longer if you stop for coffee.