Blandy's Wine Lodge

Madeira is one of the world's great fortified wines, and Blandy's Wine Lodge in the centre of Funchal is the best place to see how it is made and aged. The Blandy family came to the island from England in the early 19th century, when John Blandy arrived in 1807 and founded the company in 1811, and over seven generations the business has grown to become one of the most respected names in Madeira wine. The lodge, close to the Avenida Arriaga and the cathedral, occupies old buildings in the town centre, with thick stone walls, wooden floors, and rows of ancient barrels.

The story of Madeira wine is unusual. In the age of sail, barrels of wine were shipped from the island around the world, passing through the tropics in the holds of ships, and merchants noticed that the heat and the motion of the voyage improved the wine and made it more durable, with a distinctive caramelised, tangy character. This led to the practice of heating the wine deliberately. Cheaper wines are warmed in tanks, in a process called estufagem, but the best are aged in a slower, natural way, known as the canteiro method. Barrels are stored for years, often decades, in warm lofts under the roof, where the heat of the sun gradually matures the wine. The method is slow and costly, but produces Madeiras of great complexity, with flavours of nuts, dried fruit, coffee, and spice, and very high acidity that lets them last for a century or more.

The guided tour takes visitors through the old cellars and lofts, where barrels stand in rows, some of them dated and marked in chalk, and explains the grape varieties: the dry Sercial, the medium Verdelho, the sweeter Boal, and the rich Malvasia, also called Malmsey. Tasting follows, with several wines presented in turn, and options for vintage wines, which are the product of a single exceptional year and aged for decades, are sometimes available. Thematic tastings and other creative sessions are offered for those who want a different experience. The lodge also has a shop with bottles and gifts, and a small library of old vintages.

Madeira wine has a distinguished history, and it is said that it was used to toast the American Declaration of Independence. It is also used in cooking, in sauces and cakes. Opening hours vary by day, with shorter hours on Sundays, so check before going and book tours in advance in high season.

The lodge suits wine lovers, history readers, and curious travellers, and a visit takes about an hour.