Cais Da Ribeira

The Cais da Ribeira is the quay itself, the long stone-paved waterfront along the north bank of the Douro, and it works like a stage on which Porto stages its events. At any hour, something is going on: rabelo boats rock at their moorings, buskers tune up, waiters set out tables and people stand at the edge of the water to look across to the port lodges of Gaia. It is the most photographed place in Porto, and one of the best-loved.

The quay's role was practical long before it was picturesque. This was the city's port, where ships tied up to unload salt, cod, grain and timber, and where barrels of wine were loaded onto vessels bound for England and beyond. Warehouses and trading houses lined the edge, and the low arcades under the buildings, where merchants once kept their goods dry, now shelter restaurants and shops. The river itself was also a hazard. The Douro rises in winter floods, and plaques and marks on some of the walls record the levels reached in past inundations, a reminder of how close the houses stand to the water. The hum of trade has long since moved downriver to the port of Leixões, but the quay keeps its role as the city's front door.

The river's most important festival takes place here. On the night of 23 June, the eve of São João, the Ribeira fills with crowds who eat grilled sardines, carry little basil plants, tap each other on the head with plastic hammers and release paper lanterns, and at midnight, fireworks burst above the river. On the following day, a regatta of rabelo boats races on the Douro, with crews from the different port companies competing under their painted sails. The quay is also lit for New Year, and street performers and musicians gather on summer evenings.

For ordinary days, the quay offers simple pleasures. Sit at a table with a coffee or a glass of white Port and tonic, watch the boats go by and look at the Dom Luís I Bridge arching overhead. A river cruise leaves from the nearby moorings, and the quay is linked to Gaia by the bridge, which you can walk across. The cable car on the Gaia embankment runs close by, and the funicular carries passengers up to the upper town. The Praça da Ribeira, the open square just behind the quay, has a modern cube-shaped monument and is a meeting place for locals.

Come early in the morning to see the quay quiet, with the light on the water, and in the evening for the lively atmosphere. Tables here are more expensive than in the lanes behind, and you pay for the view, so decide whether you want a full meal or just a drink. Cobbles make it difficult for wheelchairs and strollers. The quay is free and always open, and it suits everyone, from first-time visitors to long-term residents.