Igreja De São Francisco

The Igreja de São Francisco in Porto's Ribeira district is a church of two faces: a severe Gothic exterior and an interior so richly gilded that it is often described as one of the most opulent in the world. It stands next to the old Stock Exchange palace, close to the river, and was built by the Franciscans, who arrived in Porto in the 13th century, with the church itself constructed mainly in the 14th and 15th centuries. The plain granite facade, with a large rose window and a simple portal, reflects the order's ideals of poverty and humility, and gives no hint of what lies inside.

Inside, the Gothic structure of the nave and aisles is still visible, but nearly every surface is covered in carved and gilded wood, the work of the 17th and 18th centuries in the Baroque style. Vines, birds, cherubs, and garlands swirl around the columns and altars, and the effect, in the dim light, is of a golden cave. A huge quantity of gold leaf, said to be several hundred kilograms, was used. The shift from the sober exterior to the glittering interior is part of the experience, and the church is a showpiece of Portuguese talha dourada, gilded woodcarving, which flourished in the period when gold arrived from Brazil.

Among the many altars, the Tree of Jesse, a polychrome carved altarpiece of the early 18th century, is one of the best known. It shows the family tree of Christ growing from the figure of Jesse, with kings, prophets, and ancestors rising among branches, and it is a masterpiece of sculpture. Other features include the carved choir, the chapels of different brotherhoods, and a series of tombs. Beneath the floor lies a crypt used as an ossuary, where thousands of bones from burials in the church are displayed, and a visit to it adds a more sombre note to the tour.

The church is no longer used for regular worship and operates as a museum, so there is an entrance fee and photography may be restricted. Its position, close to the Palácio da Bolsa, the Casa do Infante, and the Ribeira waterfront, makes it easy to combine with other sights. Opening times vary through the year, so check before going, and queues can build in summer.

It suits art lovers, history readers, and architecture enthusiasts, and a visit takes around forty-five minutes.