Igreja De São Leonardo (Church Of Saint Leonard)

Atouguia da Baleia is a quiet village a few kilometres from Peniche, on the Atlantic plain, and its church of São Leonardo is one of the oldest and most interesting in the region. The church stands at the centre of the settlement and is the parish church, the Igreja Matriz, and its plain, solid shape in pale stone recalls the early days of the Portuguese kingdom. Although the building lies outside the town of Peniche itself, it is part of the same area and is often visited by those exploring the peninsula.

The village has a story that begins in the 12th century. When Afonso Henriques besieged Lisbon in 1147 with the help of northern European crusaders, many of the foreign knights who took part were rewarded with land, and the area of Atouguia was given to one of them, a crusader from northern France named Guilherme de Corni, who founded the settlement. The name Baleia, whale, is believed to refer to the whaling that went on along this coast in the Middle Ages, when whales were hunted for oil and meat, and it shows how closely the people of the area were tied to the sea. The church is traditionally dated to the 12th and 13th centuries, and it is the product of the Romanesque and early Gothic world.

Its architecture is austere. The church has three aisles separated by sturdy columns, with a simple plan and thick walls, and the style is Gothic of the early period, with pointed arches that still carry a Romanesque feeling. The interior is plain, lit by small windows, and the lack of decoration gives it a solemn, quiet atmosphere. Some details, such as carved capitals, wooden ceilings and altarpieces added in later centuries, relieve the plainness. A local legend says that whale bones were used in its construction, a story that is charming, though there is no firm evidence for it.

Visiting needs a little planning. The church is a working parish church, and its opening hours are limited and irregular, with some mornings and services when it is open, so ask at the tourist office in Peniche before making the trip. Dress modestly and be quiet. The visit takes about half an hour, and the village itself, with its narrow streets, small houses and old walls, is pleasant to walk through.

From Atouguia, Peniche is a short drive, and the town's fishing port, fortress and beaches add to a day's outing. The coast near Peniche is famous for its surf at Supertubos, the lighthouse at Cabo Carvoeiro and the boats to the Berlenga Islands. The church suits those who like old churches, history and quiet villages, and it makes a good contrast to the busy harbour.