Livraria Lello

Livraria Lello is a bookshop in Porto that has become one of the most visited buildings in the city. It stands on the Rua das Carmelitas, close to the Clérigos Tower and the University, in a narrow neo-Gothic building with a carved facade that gives little warning of the interior. The shop opened in its present premises in 1906, designed by the engineer Francisco Xavier Esteves for the Lello brothers, who ran the business, and it has been selling books ever since.

The interior is the attraction. Once through the door, you find yourself in a hall of dark carved wood, with a vaulted ceiling of painted plaster, tall bookshelves rising to a gallery and a stained-glass skylight overhead. In the middle, a staircase of curving red steps sweeps up to the upper floor in two arms that meet at a landing, like something from a theatre set. The woodwork is decorated with plaster medallions and ornate details, mixing Gothic and Art Nouveau elements. The skylight carries the motto of the firm, Decus in Labore, meaning Dignity in Work. The overall effect is of a cathedral devoted to books.

The shop has long been linked with the Harry Potter novels, since J. K. Rowling lived in Porto in the early 1990s while teaching English. Many visitors come hoping to see the place that inspired the staircases and libraries of the story, though there is no firm evidence that the shop was a direct model, and the link remains popular lore. Whatever the truth, the association has made the shop one of the city's biggest tourist draws, and visitors now outnumber book buyers on busy days.

Because of the crowds, the shop charges an admission ticket, which is redeemable against a book purchase, and there are often queues outside. Buying tickets in advance online can save time, and it is a good idea to arrive when the shop opens or late in the day, since the middle of the day is the busiest. Inside, space is tight, and bags may need to be left at the entrance, so travel light. Photography is allowed, though the crush can make it hard to get a good picture. The shop sells Portuguese and foreign books, as well as souvenirs and stationery, and it hosts occasional events.

The shop is close to many of Porto's sights. The Clérigos Tower, with its panoramic view, and the Carmo Church, with its blue tiled side wall, are a few steps away, and the university and the famous Café Majestic are also nearby. A visit takes half an hour to an hour, depending on the queue. It suits book lovers, architecture enthusiasts and anyone who appreciates a beautiful interior.