Medieval Squares Of Guimarães

Guimarães is a town where the squares are the best museum. In a compact area at the foot of the castle hill, three open spaces in particular give a vivid picture of how a medieval Portuguese town looked and worked. They are small, human in scale, and framed by stone buildings that have been lived in continuously for centuries, which gives them a warmth that restored monuments often lack.

The Largo da Oliveira is the most celebrated. Its name comes from an olive tree, and a local legend tells that in the 7th century the Visigothic king Wamba planted his staff here and that it took root and grew into an olive. Dominating the square is the church of Nossa Senhora da Oliveira, with its Gothic cloister and tower, founded by the ancient collegiate chapter of the town. In front of the church stands a small Gothic canopy, the Padrão do Salado, built in the 14th century to celebrate the Portuguese and Castilian victory over the Moors at the battle of Salado in 1340. Around the other sides, whitewashed buildings with wooden balconies and the old town hall with its arched ground floor complete the scene. The terraces of cafés spill out onto the stones, and in the evening the square is full of conversation.

A few steps away, the Praça de Santiago is a more intimate space. It is a triangular square lined with old houses with arcades, small shops, and restaurants, and it was historically one of the main meeting points of the town, where markets and processions took place. The paving is of granite, the colours of the houses range from cream to ochre, and a flowering tree or a hanging basket here and there gives touches of colour. The street that links the two squares, the Rua de Santa Maria, is lined with medieval houses and is one of the best-preserved old streets in Portugal. It climbs gently to the castle.

Together the squares make a good walking circuit. Starting at the Largo da Oliveira, you can wander through the Praça de Santiago and up the Rua de Santa Maria to the castle and the Paço dos Duques, before returning by another lane. In summer the squares host concerts, markets, and festivals, and at Christmas they are decorated.

The squares are open at all hours, and free. Early morning has the best light and the quietest atmosphere, while evening offers lively crowds. They suit anyone who likes to wander at leisure, photographers, and those who enjoy local food and a coffee in a historic setting.