Monte Palace Madeira

The Monte Palace Tropical Garden occupies a hillside in Monte, the village above Funchal at around 500 metres, where the air is cooler and mist often hangs among the trees. It covers about seventy thousand square metres and combines botanical collections, art, and views over the city and the Atlantic. Unlike the formal Botanical Garden nearby, it is arranged as a series of themed spaces, with ponds, waterfalls, terraces, and paths winding through plantings from many parts of the world.

The property has a long history. In the 18th century an estate here belonged to the Count of Carvalhal, and in the late 19th century it was developed as a villa, with later owners including a British consul, Charles Murray, who laid out a garden. It then became a grand hotel, Monte Palace, which closed in the 20th century and fell into neglect. In 1987 it was bought by the businessman José Berardo, who restored it and opened it to the public in 1991, adding the collections that visitors see today.

One highlight is the art. The garden holds a large collection of stone sculpture from Zimbabwe, displayed among the plants, and there are panels of Portuguese azulejo tiles that tell scenes from the country's history, from the Reconquest to the age of discovery. Oriental influence appears in Japanese-style gardens with ponds of koi carp and Chinese-style pavilions. Peacocks wander the paths, and a series of cycads, orchids, proteas, and exotic trees add to the botanical interest. A museum on the site displays a collection of minerals and gemstones, which is of particular interest to geology fans. The palace itself remains private.

Getting there is part of the pleasure. A cable car runs from Funchal's old town up to Monte in about fifteen minutes, with views over the roofs and the bay, and local buses also climb the hill. From Monte, the famous wicker toboggan rides run down to the city, and the church of Our Lady of Monte, a pilgrimage site, stands nearby. The cable car may close for maintenance, so check ahead.

The garden is large and hilly, with steps and slopes, so comfortable shoes are essential, and a light waterproof is useful, since showers are common. Allow two to three hours. It suits garden lovers, families, and art enthusiasts looking for a varied day.