Palácio Da Brejoeira

The Palácio da Brejoeira stands in the green countryside south of Monção, in the north of the Minho, in the area that produces the Alvarinho grape. It is one of the most impressive country houses in northern Portugal, and visiting it offers a glimpse of the life of the landed aristocracy of the early 19th century. The palace was built by Luís Pereira Velho de Moscoso, a nobleman who began work in 1806 and had the building completed in the years that followed. The date reflects the time of change: Napoleon's armies had invaded Portugal, the royal court soon left for Brazil, and yet in a quiet corner of the Minho a landowner was building a palace in the new neoclassical taste.

The building is on a grand scale, with a long, symmetrical facade of pale stone, a central block with a triangular pediment topped with sculptures, and wings at each side. The proportions are balanced and the decoration is restrained, in the classical manner then fashionable across Europe. Inside, large reception rooms are decorated with painted ceilings, plasterwork, period furniture, and mirrors, and the visit includes rooms such as the so-called king's room, where a royal guest was said to have slept. The scale and finish of the interiors show the wealth that came from large landholdings and from wine.

The estate covers around eighteen hectares and includes formal gardens with clipped hedges, a pond, and statues, as well as woodland and vineyards. The vines are Alvarinho, the white variety that makes the fresh, aromatic wines of the Monção and Melgaço area, and the estate's own wine is one of the best-known examples. The old wine cellar and the vineyard walks form part of the visit, and the guides explain how the grapes are grown in the damp Atlantic climate of the region, often trained high on pergolas to keep them off the ground.

Visits are guided and the palace is a private home, so opening arrangements are limited, and it is important to check and book ahead. It lies about five kilometres from Monção and is easily reached by car. The town of Monção has a historic centre with old gates, a market, and a spa, and it is a pleasant place for lunch with a glass of local wine.

The palace suits architecture lovers, wine drinkers, and history readers, and it fits well into a journey through the Minho.