Vaz Valley

The valley lies in the municipality of Monção, in the far north of Portugal, in the Minho region that borders Galicia. This is one of the greenest parts of the country, a landscape of granite hills, small rivers and fertile fields, with a wetter climate than the south. Monção is best known for the Alvarinho grape, which gives one of the most distinctive white wines in Portugal, and the surrounding countryside is dominated by vineyards, often trained on high trellises or pergolas rather than low vines.

Not much is formally documented about this particular valley, so it is better to describe it as a typical Minho valley than to promise specific sights. The agricultural pattern is familiar across the region. Small fields of maize, cabbages and vines are divided by granite walls, and houses of the same grey stone cluster in hamlets linked by narrow lanes. Chestnut and oak woods cover the slopes, and the streams that feed the valleys eventually reach the Minho River, which forms the border with Spain. In the autumn the vineyards turn gold and red, and the harvest brings the villages to life.

The valley makes a good base for a slow day on foot or by bicycle, rather than a checklist of landmarks. Rural lanes and tracks link the hamlets, and the area is quiet enough for a pleasant stroll. Weather can be wet outside the summer months, so waterproofs are useful, and the paths may be muddy. Local markets in Monção sell cheese, bread, cured meats and the regional vegetables, and many farms sell wine directly.

The town of Monção is close by and rewards a visit in its own right. Its medieval centre still has traces of its walls and gates, among them the Porta do Salvado, and the main square, Praça Deu-la-Deu, takes its name from Deu-la-Deu Martins, a woman who by tradition saved the town during a siege in the 14th century by throwing bread at the attackers to show that the town had plenty of food. The parish church, the Igreja Matriz, dates from the Middle Ages, and the thermal springs of Caldas de Monção have been used for centuries. Just outside town, the Palácio da Brejoeira, a neoclassical country house, stands in the middle of a large Alvarinho estate and is open for tours and tastings.

The valley suits visitors who enjoy quiet countryside, good food and wine, and are happy to explore without a fixed plan. Late spring and early autumn are the best seasons, when the weather is mild and the vineyards are at their best. Ask at the Monção tourist office for current walking routes in the area.