Poça Dona Beija (Furnas Hot Spring Pool)

The Poça da Dona Beija is a thermal bathing spot on the edge of the village of Furnas, in the east of São Miguel, and it has a different spirit from the large garden pool at Terra Nostra Park. It is smaller and more intimate, a group of four pools set among tree ferns and flowering shrubs in a sheltered valley, with warm, iron-rich water pouring in from a stream. The setting is soft and green, and the pools are lit at night, which makes an evening soak a special experience.

The water comes from the volcanic springs that heat the whole Furnas valley. As it rises from the ground, it picks up dissolved minerals, particularly iron, which gives it a rusty-orange colour and leaves reddish stains on the stone edges of the pools. The temperature is pleasantly high, around 39 degrees Celsius in the main pools, with some variation between them, and the water is soft and slightly thick to the touch. People believe that it has a beneficial effect on skin and muscles. The pools are of different sizes and depths, so you can choose between a deeper pool for floating and shallower ones for sitting, and a small waterfall pours into one of them.

The site is organised for a stay of limited length, usually around an hour and a half, and it is open into the late evening, so many visitors come after dinner or after a day of hiking, when the air is cool and the steam rises from the water. The best times for a quiet experience are late evening on weekdays, and the early afternoon in winter, and busy times such as summer weekends can mean waiting. Changing rooms and showers are provided, and there is a small shop. Because the iron stains fabric, wear an old swimsuit and bring a towel and a bag for wet clothes. The pools are not suitable for those with heart problems or pregnancy without medical advice, and it is wise to drink water and not stay in for too long.

The pools lie within walking distance of other sights in Furnas. The Terra Nostra Park, with its botanical garden, the boiling springs of the Caldeiras, the lake and the village shops and restaurants are all close, so the pools can be combined with a day exploring the valley. The local speciality, cozido das Furnas, the stew cooked underground, can be eaten at restaurants in the village. The road from Ponta Delgada takes about an hour.

Reservations are recommended in peak periods, and opening hours may change by season, so check before you go. The pools suit couples, friends and anyone who enjoys a warm soak in a green setting.