Praia Da Ursa

Praia da Ursa is one of the wildest beaches in Portugal, a small cove of sand and boulders at the foot of high cliffs just north of Cabo da Roca. Cabo da Roca is the westernmost point of mainland Europe, marked by a lighthouse and a monument carrying a line of the poet Camões that says, in effect, that here the land ends and the sea begins. The Praia da Ursa lies a short distance north of this headland, below the hamlet of Azóia, and it is often described as the westernmost beach on the continent.

The beach takes its name from a rock formation, a sea stack standing just offshore, which looks, from a certain angle, like a bear with her cub. The Portuguese ursa means female bear, and the likeness is one of the best-known sights of the coast. Around it, other rocks and pinnacles rise from the surf, and the cliffs behind are streaked with different shades of stone. The scenery is rugged and dramatic, especially when the Atlantic swell breaks over the rocks, and it is a favourite subject for photographers at sunset.

Reaching the beach is a serious undertaking. The only way down is by a steep, narrow trail of loose earth and rock that drops from the clifftop, with a few sections where you may have to use your hands. The path can be slippery after rain, and the climb back up is hard going, especially in the heat. It is not suitable for small children, people with limited mobility or anyone in unsuitable footwear. Many visitors turn back when they see the path, and some who go down find themselves tired on the way up. Wear shoes with grip, carry plenty of water and allow time.

At the bottom, there are no facilities of any kind: no lifeguards, no shade, no toilets and no cafe. The sea is cold and powerful, with strong currents and big waves, and swimming is dangerous. The beach is more a place for sitting, looking and walking among the rocks at low tide than for bathing. It is also known as an informal naturist beach, so you may find people without clothes. Keep clear of the base of the cliffs, as rockfalls can occur, and check the tide, because high water covers much of the sand.

The beach is best visited in calm weather in summer or early autumn, with an early start to avoid both the heat and the crowds. You can reach the clifftop by road from Sintra or from Cascais, parking near Azóia. Combine the visit with Cabo da Roca itself, which has a lighthouse, a viewing platform and a small cafe, and with the Praia da Adraga to the north, an easier beach. Praia da Ursa suits fit, adventurous visitors who value wild scenery over comfort.