Praia Zimbralinho

Most people who come to Porto Santo come for the great golden beach in front of Vila Baleira, nine kilometres of pale sand, but the island also has smaller, more private places, and Praia do Zimbralinho is one of them. It lies on the south-western side, near the headland of Ponta da Calheta, a short distance from the end of the long beach, and it feels like another island altogether: a small cove of sand and pebbles tucked between dark volcanic rocks, with clear water the colour of turquoise.

Porto Santo is a volcanic island, much older and drier than Madeira, and its coastline shows the evidence. Dark basalt cliffs, eroded into ledges and columns, frame the cove, and rocks of different colours, from black through rust-red to ochre, show the layers of old lava flows and ash. The land behind is dry and scrubby, with low bushes and grass, and the name Zimbralinho is usually explained as coming from the Portuguese word zimbro, juniper, as if the little cove had once been marked by a grove of these shrubs. The sea here is very clear, since the rocky bottom does not stir up sediment, and the water is sheltered enough in calm weather to make snorkelling worthwhile. Small fish gather around the rocks, and the contrast between the dark stone and the bright water is striking.

Reaching the cove takes a little effort, which is part of its appeal. A track leads from the road toward the coast, and the last stretch is a short walk down a rocky path to the beach. The path is uneven and can be loose, so wear sturdy sandals or shoes rather than flip-flops, and take care on the way back up in the heat. There are no facilities at all, no cafe, no toilets and no lifeguard, so bring water, food, sun protection and something to provide shade, and take your rubbish away with you. Swimmers should be cautious, as currents can run along the rocks and the sea can become rough when the wind is up, and it is wise not to go far from the shore.

The best season is late spring to early autumn, when the water is warm and the weather is dry, and mornings are the quietest. In July and August, it can be busier, though it never feels crowded like the main beach. The beach is open at all times, free of charge, and the sunsets from here are lovely.

It combines naturally with the neighbouring Praia da Calheta and the headland of Ponta da Calheta, and with a visit to the basalt cliffs known as the Órgão, the Organ, and to the town of Vila Baleira with its Columbus house. The cove suits adventurous walkers, snorkellers and those who like quiet places away from the main resort.