The Riviera (Ribeira)

The Ribeira is the oldest riverfront quarter of Porto, a tight tangle of tall, narrow houses squeezed between the Douro and the steep slope of the old town. Its name simply means riverbank, and the district has been the city's waterside since the Middle Ages, when ships loaded and unloaded here and merchants lived above their warehouses. Together with the surrounding old town, it is part of the Historic Centre of Porto, which UNESCO listed in 1996.

The houses are the first thing you notice. They rise four or five storeys, with narrow fronts, wrought-iron balconies, washing lines and facades covered in azulejo tiles or painted in faded pastel colours, and they give the waterfront its postcard look. Behind them, a maze of steep alleys and stairways climbs the hill, and the funicular dos Guindais carries passengers from the river up to the upper town. The quay itself, the Cais da Ribeira, is a long open promenade lined with cafes and restaurants, with a view across the water to the Port lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia and the great iron arch of the Dom Luís I Bridge, which rises above the quarter.

The Praça da Ribeira is the central square, with a cubist sculpture, the Cubo da Ribeira, at its centre. Close by, Largo do Terreiro holds the small chapel of Nossa Senhora de Ó and the Fonte Taurina, a fountain featuring a bull, which marks the start of the busiest stretch of restaurants. Along the waterfront, a metal plaque recalls the people of Porto who drowned in 1809 when the bridge of boats that once stood here collapsed under the weight of those fleeing the French army. Nearby stands the Casa do Infante, a medieval building traditionally linked to the birth of Prince Henry the Navigator, and a short walk uphill leads to the Palácio da Bolsa and the gilded Church of São Francisco.

For food, the Ribeira is the best-known place in town to eat by the river. Restaurants serve codfish dishes, grilled sardines, tripe in the Porto style and francesinha, and in warm weather tables fill the quay. Prices here are higher than in the side streets, and the quality varies, so look at where the locals eat, and consider a meal in one of the lanes behind the waterfront. In the evening, buskers and street performers add to the atmosphere. Rabelo boats moored along the quay offer short river cruises.

The quarter is free to wander at any hour. It is busiest at midday and in the evening, and quietest early in the morning, when the light is soft and the shutters are still closed. The cobbles are uneven and steep, so wear flat shoes. Sunset is the best time to take in the view toward Gaia. The Ribeira suits all visitors to Porto and is the natural starting point for a walk through the old town.