Thermal Pools Of Furnas

Furnas is a village in a volcanic crater on the east side of São Miguel, and its hot springs have drawn bathers for centuries. Steam rises from vents around the village, streams run orange with iron, and in the ground near the lake the locals cook cozido, a stew buried in hot volcanic soil. The thermal pool at the Terra Nostra Park is the best-known place to bathe, and it is one of the most distinctive experiences in the Azores.

The pool lies in the middle of a botanical garden. The park was first laid out in the 18th century as a summer retreat by Thomas Hickling, an American merchant who served as consul in the Azores, and it was expanded in the 19th century by the Visconde da Praia, who added the large pool and planted rare trees from around the world. The Terra Nostra Garden Hotel, in an Art Deco building from the 1930s, stands beside it. Today, the garden contains tree ferns, camellias, cycads, magnolias and giant trees, along with shady paths, ponds and a collection of plants that is regarded as one of the finest on the islands.

The water is rich in dissolved iron, which turns it a murky orange-brown, and its temperature is warm rather than scalding, usually somewhere between the mid-30s and about 40 degrees Celsius. The water is said to be good for the skin and for tired muscles. The pool is large, with a stone edge and benches, and you can stay as long as you like. Be aware that the iron stains swimwear, so bring a suit you do not mind discolouring, and bring a towel and a plastic bag for wet clothes. Showers and changing rooms are available, but you may want to rinse off well, because the iron leaves a faint colour on the skin.

Entry to the park includes access to the garden as well as the pool, and it is worth allowing time for both. Many visitors spend an hour or two in the water and the rest of the day wandering the garden. A smaller, more intimate option nearby is the Poça da Dona Beija, a set of pools in a quiet garden that stays open into the evening, which is a good choice for a night swim. Furnas also has fumaroles and boiling springs, called caldeiras, in the centre of the village, as well as a lake with a path around it.

The best time to visit is early in the morning or late afternoon, when the crowds are thinner. On rainy days, the warm water is at its most pleasant, with mist rising from the pool and the green garden around. Furnas is around an hour from Ponta Delgada by road, and it makes a good half-day or full-day trip. The experience suits anyone who wants to relax after a day of hiking, as well as families and garden lovers.