Tobogganing (Sledge Ride)

The sledge ride from Monte to Funchal is a short, loud and slightly absurd journey that most visitors to Madeira find worth the money. It starts at the foot of the long staircase leading up to the church of Nossa Senhora do Monte, in the hilltop village of Monte, where a row of wicker sledges stands waiting beside the road. A pair of men in white clothes and straw hats, the carreiros, will help you into the basket, and then the sledge slides away down a steep, narrow street.

The sledges are two-seat wicker baskets mounted on wooden runners, rather like a sleigh without snow. They run on a road paved with cobbles polished by the runners over the years, and the surface is slick enough that the sledge slides easily. Two carreiros guide it, one on each side, holding ropes, running and steering, and they brake by pressing their rubber-soled boots to the ground. The ride lasts about ten minutes and covers around two kilometres, descending to the district of Livramento, and on the steepest stretches, the sledge can reach considerable speed, sometimes quoted at close to fifty kilometres an hour, though it feels faster because you sit low to the ground. The route winds between houses, walls and gardens, and the carreiros call out and sometimes brake sharply at the corners. Most people laugh throughout, and the men pose for photographs at the end.

Planning the ride is easy. Tickets are sold at the departure point, with prices depending on whether you ride alone or with company, and there is usually a queue in the middle of the day, especially when cruise ships are in port. Early morning is quieter. The service operates most days, with shorter hours on Sundays and a closure in rain, when the cobbles become dangerous. At the bottom, taxis wait to carry passengers to Funchal, which takes about ten minutes, or you can take a bus. A common plan is to ride the cable car up from the Zona Velha, visit the church and the Monte Palace Tropical Garden, then toboggan down and finish with a taxi.

Safety matters, too. The ride is thrilling but generally safe in the hands of the carreiros, who have done it for years. Children may ride with an adult, and people with back problems or heart conditions should think twice. Hold on, keep arms inside the basket and follow the instructions of the drivers. Secure your camera, hat and bags, since the sledge jolts over bumps. Wear flat, closed shoes.

The sledge ride suits families, couples and anyone who likes a bit of nostalgia mixed with adrenaline. It is touristy, but it is also a living piece of local tradition.