Torre Dos Clérigos

The Torre dos Clérigos is the tower that defines the skyline of Porto, and the climb to the top is one of the best things to do in the city. It was designed by Nicolau Nasoni, a Tuscan architect and painter who came to Portugal in the 1720s and spent the rest of his life in the north, leaving a trail of Baroque churches and palaces. The tower was built between 1754 and 1763 as part of the church of the Brotherhood of the Clérigos, a charity of priests, and at about seventy-five metres it was the tallest structure in Portugal at the time. For a century it served as a landmark for ships approaching the mouth of the Douro.

The church that stands beside the tower was built earlier, between 1732 and 1750, and is a masterpiece of Nasoni's Baroque style. Its plan is oval, which was unusual for Portugal, and its facade is decorated with curved pediments, niches, and carved stone, while the interior is richly decorated in polychrome marble and gilded wood. The church is open to visitors free of charge, though it remains an active place of worship, with a hushed, golden atmosphere. A small museum in the building tells the story of the Brotherhood and of Nasoni's work, with paintings, sculptures, and liturgical objects.

The tower itself is a slender, six-storey granite structure, and visitors climb a narrow spiral staircase of more than two hundred steps to the top. The stairs are tight and can be crowded, with people passing in both directions, and the ascent is steep, so it requires some effort. Small windows along the way give glimpses of the city, and at the top a balcony runs around the belfry, giving a panoramic view of Porto. From here the terracotta roofs, church towers, and the winding ribbon of the Douro spread out below, with the bridges, the Gaia port lodges, and the Atlantic on the horizon. The best light for photographs is in the late afternoon, when the roofs glow, and the view at sunset is memorable.

The tower is a popular attraction, so queues can form, particularly in summer. Ticket arrangements and prices change, with combined options for the museum, and various discount cards offer reductions, so check on the day. Early morning is the quietest time. The tower stands in the centre of the old town, close to the Lello bookshop and the Praça de Lisboa.

It suits all visitors who can manage stairs, and it takes about forty-five minutes with the church.