Bottle-Green Lakes Of São Miguel

Among the lakes of São Miguel, the one most people mean when they talk about bottle-green water is the pair in the Sete Cidades caldera, at the western end of the island. The Lagoa Azul and the Lagoa Verde sit side by side inside a crater about five kilometres across, separated by a narrow strip of land crossed by a small bridge. From above they appear as two distinct colours, one blue and one green, although they are connected and the colour shift depends heavily on the sky, the angle of the light, and the algae and depth of the water.

The classic view is from the Vista do Rei, a viewpoint on the crater rim. The ruined shell of a hotel built in the 1980s stands nearby, and beyond it the slopes drop steeply to the lakes, with the small village of Sete Cidades and its neo-Gothic church by the water. Clouds often drift across the rim and obscure the view, and residents will tell you to wait a few minutes because the weather changes fast. Hydrangeas line the roads in summer, adding colour to the route.

A local legend explains the two colours. A king's blue-eyed daughter and a green-eyed shepherd fell in love but were forbidden to meet, and the tears they shed as they said goodbye filled the two lakes. It is a story told to children and visitors alike, and it adds a human note to a landscape formed by volcanic eruptions.

Other lakes on the island have similar atmospheres. The Lagoa do Fogo lies in a protected crater in the central mountains, with a pale shore and clear water, and the Lagoa das Furnas is known for the fumaroles on its shore. Smaller crater lakes near Sete Cidades, such as Santiago and Rasa, are good for quiet walks. Marked trails, including one that circles the Sete Cidades rim, give long views over the crater and the open Atlantic.

There is no charge to see the lakes, and they are best visited early, when the air is still and the light clear. Bring a waterproof layer and warm clothing, since the crater can be cool and wet even in summer. The lakes suit hikers, cyclists, and photographers, and anyone who wants to see the volcanic origins of the Azores at first hand.