Otherworldly Landscapes Of São Miguel

São Miguel is a place where the scenery changes so rapidly that a day's drive can feel like crossing several countries. The island's landscapes come from a mix of volcanic activity, a mild, wet Atlantic climate, and generations of farming, and the result is a mosaic of colours that surprises first-time visitors: black stone, red earth, bright green pasture, deep blue lakes, and flowers of every shade.

At the western end, the rim of the Sete Cidades caldera is lined with viewpoints. From the Vista do Rei the twin lakes appear below, and a short drive along the crater rim leads to the Boca do Inferno viewpoint, which looks down on a different set of crater lakes, including the Lagoa de Santiago, set in thick forest. When the morning mist lifts off the water, the effect is of a landscape from a fantasy film. Farther east the contrast is with open pastures, where dairy cows graze under rows of hydrangeas and the cattle are a more common sight than people.

Other parts of the island are even stranger. In the Furnas valley, the ground steams, the water bubbles, and the soil is warm, and the Caldeira Velha, with a hot waterfall that pours into a warm pool among tree ferns, is a favourite stop. On the north coast, tea plantations climb the slopes in neat green rows above the sea, the only commercial tea estates in Europe. Black volcanic sand lines beaches such as Mosteiros and the Ribeira Grande shore, and tall cliffs with waterfalls drop to the sea in many places.

The pleasure of the island is that these places lie close together, and a hired car makes it easy to move from crater to coast to hot spring in a day. Roads are good, but the weather can change quickly, from sun to fog to rain, so layers and waterproofs are essential. The best views often come after a shower, when the air is clear, and early morning offers calm light and fewer visitors.

It suits drivers, hikers, photographers, and families who want variety. Plan at least three or four days to see the main sights without hurrying, and leave room for slow stops at roadside viewpoints and local cafés.