Lush Hills, Rolling Pastures, And Quaint Cottages Of São Miguel ('Green Island' Landscape)

São Miguel is called the Green Island for good reason. The mild Atlantic climate, frequent rain, and fertile volcanic soil keep the land green all year, and the countryside away from the coast is a patchwork of pastures, forest, and small farms that gives the island a gentle, pastoral appearance. It is one of the places in Europe where cattle are a more obvious part of the landscape than people, since dairy farming is the backbone of the rural economy and the milk, butter, and cheese of the Azores are exported across Portugal.

The pastures are divided by low walls of black volcanic stone and by hedges of hydrangea, which flower in blue, pink, and white from June to September and line the roads for kilometres. Behind them rise hills covered in dark plantations of Japanese cedar, planted for timber, and in the higher ground the native laurel forest survives. The highest point of the island, Pico da Vara, in the east, is just over eleven hundred metres and is home to the rare Azores bullfinch, found nowhere else in the world.

The small villages and farm cottages are part of the picture. Many are whitewashed with trim of dark basalt around doors and windows, and roofs of red tile. Gardens are full of flowers, vegetables, and fruit trees, and chapels dedicated to local saints stand at crossroads. The east of the island, around the municipality of Nordeste, is the greenest and least visited area, with steep valleys that fall to the sea and viewpoints such as the Ponta do Sossego, a terraced garden with sea views. Along the north coast, tea has been grown since the 19th century at the Gorreana plantation, where rows of bushes climb the hillside above the ocean, and visitors can see the factory and taste the tea.

The best way to explore is by car with frequent stops, or on foot along old paths between villages. Roads are narrow and winding, and cattle sometimes cross them, so drive slowly. Weather changes quickly, so carry rain gear, and enjoy clear spells when they come, since the views open suddenly after a shower.

The landscape suits drivers, walkers, cyclists, photographers, and travellers who want a quieter side of the island than the crater lakes.