Volcanic Hot Springs And Thermal Baths Of São Miguel

São Miguel is a volcanic island, and the heat under it shows in many places: steaming vents in village streets, boiling mud pools, and warm, mineral-rich water that bubbles up into pools where people have bathed for generations. The Azores sit close to the meeting point of three tectonic plates, the Eurasian, North American and Nubian plates, and the island is made up of several active volcanoes, which is why the thermal water is so easy to find. Bathing in it is one of the most characteristic things to do here.

The best-known place is Furnas, in a crater on the east of the island. At Terra Nostra Park, a large pool inside a botanical garden holds orange-brown water, coloured by iron, at a pleasant temperature somewhere between the mid-30s and about 40 degrees. Not far away, the Poça da Dona Beija has a group of smaller pools of different temperatures set in a quiet garden, open into the evening. Furnas also has fumaroles and boiling springs in the village centre, where the sulphur smell is strong and where locals cook a stew underground in the hot soil.

On the north coast, near Ribeira Grande, the Caldeira Velha is a smaller site tucked into dense forest, where hot water flows over rocks into a pool at the foot of a small waterfall, surrounded by tree ferns and moss. The setting has a jungle feel, and the numbers of visitors can be limited to protect the site, so it is wise to check conditions before going. On the western side of the island, the thermal springs at Ponta da Ferraria are unusual, since they emerge at the edge of the sea, in a cove of black lava, where hot water mixes with the Atlantic. The temperature depends on the tide and the waves, and this spot is best at low tide in calm weather. It is not suited to rough seas.

A few practical points help. The iron in the water stains swimwear and can discolour light hair, so wear dark swimwear and avoid wearing anything you want to keep pristine. Shower before and after, and avoid soaps in the pools. Water temperatures vary with weather and season, and the water is not suitable for sitting in for hours, so take breaks, drink water and do not enter if you have health concerns such as heart conditions or pregnancy without checking with a doctor. Changing rooms and showers are provided at the main sites, and entry fees vary from site to site, as some pools are public and others are part of parks or hotels.

The experience works best when combined with other sights. A day in Furnas can include the lake, the viewpoints and the gardens, while a visit to Ribeira Grande can combine the forest pools with the town's old centre and the tea plantations of the north coast. Early mornings and evenings are best for fewer people. The pools suit visitors of all ages who want to relax after hiking or driving the island's roads.