Cais Do Pinhão (Pinhão Docks)

The quay at Pinhão is where the Douro valley meets the river. The small town of Pinhão sits on the north bank, at the confluence of the Douro and the Pinhão river, in the middle of the Cima Corgo, the core of Port wine country, and its waterfront is the main place to stand and look at the landscape. A tree-lined promenade runs along the water, with benches, cafes and restaurants on one side and moored boats on the other, and beyond the river the terraced vineyards climb the opposite hillside in steps of green and gold.

For centuries, the Douro was the road along which the valley's wine travelled. Before the railway and the dams, barrels of Port were loaded onto flat-bottomed rabelo boats at quays like this one and floated down the river to the lodges at Vila Nova de Gaia, a journey that could take days and was dangerous because of rapids and rocks. Pinhão grew up as a point of exchange between the surrounding estates and the river, and the old quay is a reminder of that role. Today, it still has an active life, with tourist boats and cruises departing and arriving throughout the day.

The quay is also the starting point for river excursions. Short trips on rabelo-style boats leave from here, going up or down the river for an hour or two, with commentary and sometimes a glass of wine, and longer cruises from Porto make their stops at Pinhão, so you may see large river cruise ships moored alongside. A few operators run small motorboats and private tours for those who want a more personal experience, and some offer lunch on board. Trips depend on water levels and weather, and timetables change by season, so check on the spot or book in advance.

Next to the quay stands the Pinhão railway station, whose walls are covered with blue azulejo panels from the 1930s showing scenes of the harvest and of the river, and the Douro line, a scenic railway that follows the river from Porto, ends its most popular stretch here. The town has a handful of hotels, guesthouses and restaurants, and the wine estates around it, including Quinta de la Rosa, welcome visitors for tours and tastings. A road bridge crosses the river just upstream, giving a good view of the quay from above.

The promenade is free to walk, and it is pleasant at any time of day. Mornings are quiet, with mist on the water, and evenings are lively as people sit outside to eat. Autumn, during the harvest, is the busiest and most colourful season, and summer is hot, with temperatures over 40 degrees at times. It suits anyone staying in the valley, as a place to start the day, find a boat or simply sit with a glass of wine and the view.