Castelo De Castelo De Vide (Castle Of Castelo De Vide)

Castelo de Vide is a white town on the slopes of the Serra de São Mamede, in the Alto Alentejo, a short distance from the Spanish border, and its castle is the oldest and highest part of the settlement. The castle was built in the 13th century and strengthened by King Dinis, who gave the town its charter and ordered fortifications along the frontier to protect the kingdom. It sits on a hilltop above the houses, with thick walls of the local stone and a keep that was once the refuge of the garrison and townspeople in time of attack.

The castle is more than a ruin: part of the old town is built inside its walls. A cluster of narrow lanes of whitewashed houses with blue and yellow trim, stone steps, and flowerpots lies within the fortified enclosure, in a quarter known as the vila medieval, and a Gothic church, the Igreja de Santa Maria da Devesa, is set in the middle. The effect is of a miniature walled town within a town, with the castle at the top guarding the whole. Wandering through these lanes is a pleasure in itself, and they are particularly atmospheric in the early morning or evening.

From the castle walls and the keep, the view is wide. The tiled roofs of the town fall away down the slope, with terraced gardens and orchards below, and beyond them stretch the plains and hills of the Alentejo, with the Serra de São Mamede rising behind. On clear days the line of the Spanish frontier and the fortress of Marvão on its crag can be seen to the north. The air at this altitude is cooler than on the plain, which makes the castle a pleasant place in summer, and the light at sunset on the white walls is lovely.

The castle forms part of a pleasant circuit that includes the medieval Jewish quarter, with its synagogue, the town's many fountains, and the main square, Praça D. Pedro V. The mineral water springs for which the town is known are close, and the fountain of the Vila has a long tradition of drinking cures. Paths lead from the town into the park of São Mamede.

The climb to the castle is steep, on cobbled lanes, so wear sturdy shoes. Opening hours vary, so check at the tourist office. The castle suits history readers, photographers, and walkers, and it combines well with a day in the town.