Church At Sao Vicente

São Vicente is a village on the north coast of Madeira, set where a deep green valley meets the Atlantic, and its parish church sits in the middle of the small centre beside the main street and the river. The village is named after Saint Vincent, a martyr of the early church who is the patron of sailors and of winegrowers, a fitting choice for a place with both a harbour and terraced vineyards in the surrounding hills. A chapel is thought to have stood here from the early years of settlement, in the 15th century, and the present building was constructed in the 17th century, since when it has been the centre of parish life.

The church is typical of Madeira's rural parish churches, which combine a sober whitewashed exterior with an interior full of colour and craftsmanship. The facade is simple, with a triangular pediment topped by a cross, corner stones of dark volcanic rock, and a bell tower that rises above the roofs. Inside, a single nave leads to an altar with gilded carved wood, and painted ceilings, carved woodwork, and tile panels add decoration. Many such churches on the island have painted ceilings in wood, a tradition that provided a cheaper alternative to stone vaulting, and visitors should look up as well as around. A choir gallery at the back holds an organ.

The church is best seen as part of a walk through the village. Nearby is the small chapel of São Vicente, tucked against a rock face on the edge of the centre, and the old stone houses along the street have wooden balconies and painted shutters. The surrounding area is notable for its landscape. The São Vicente caves, formed by lava tubes, lie just outside the village and can be visited, and the valley behind is covered in terraces of vegetables and vines. The coast road along the north shore, with its tunnels and waterfalls, is one of the island's most dramatic drives.

The church is an active place of worship, so visitors should dress modestly and avoid entering during services. Opening hours are not fixed and may depend on the time of day, so if the door is closed the exterior and the small square outside are still pleasant. The visit takes only a few minutes.

It suits travellers who enjoy the quiet side of Madeira, those exploring the north coast by car, and anyone interested in rural churches.