Church Of Vila Do Conde

The Igreja Matriz of Vila do Conde, the mother church of the town, is dedicated to São João Baptista, Saint John the Baptist, and it stands on a central square, facing the 18th-century town hall. It is one of the most important buildings in the town and an example of the granite architecture of the north of Portugal. Built in the late 15th and early 16th centuries, during the Age of Discovery, it reflects the wealth of a port town whose shipyards built vessels for the voyages of the time.

Granite is the basis of its character. The local stone gives the church a robust, austere appearance, with plain walls and a restrained facade, and the lack of ornament is part of its appeal. The design belongs to the late Gothic period, with a nave and aisles, but it also carries the flourishes of the Manueline style, which marked the reign of Manuel I. The most remarkable decorative element is the main portal, carved with twisted columns, arches and sculptural details typical of the Manueline taste, which is attributed to the master João de Castilho, one of the leading architects of the time and the designer of work in the Jerónimos Monastery in Lisbon. The contrast between the plain wall and the rich portal draws the eye.

Inside, the space is dignified and spare. Granite columns support the vaults, and the light is soft. Altarpieces in gilded wood, added in later centuries, and religious images enrich the chapels, and some sections show the work of local artists. The church has served generations of fishermen, shipbuilders and merchants, who attended mass here and donated funds for its upkeep, and it remains an active place of worship. Visitors should dress modestly and keep quiet during services. Opening times for the interior are not always fixed, but the exterior and portal can be seen at any time.

The setting is part of the visit. The square is lined with shops and cafes and holds a stone pillory, a reminder of the town's former municipal rights, and the town hall opposite is a handsome building with a clock. From here, a short walk leads down to the river Ave and the old shipyards, where the royal customs house, now a shipbuilding museum, and a replica of a 16th-century ship are moored. Across the river, the huge convent of Santa Clara sits on its hill, with a long aqueduct stretching toward it, and the town is famed for its lace, which is still made by hand. Beaches lie a short distance away.

The church fits into a walk of an hour or two around the old centre. It suits those interested in religious architecture, in the Manueline style and in the maritime history of the north.