Complexo Balnear Da Barreirinha

Funchal is a city of steep hills and rocky coast, and unlike many seaside capitals it has few sandy beaches. Bathing has traditionally taken place in swimming complexes, known as complexos balneares or lidos, which are built on the rocks beside the sea with platforms, steps, and sheltered pools. The Complexo Balnear da Barreirinha is one of these, and it gives an easy and safe way to enjoy the Atlantic without having to deal with pebbles and surf.

The complex is built along the shore of Funchal, on the south coast of Madeira, with direct access to the sea from concrete and stone platforms. A ladder or steps lead into the water, and a diving board gives confident swimmers a place to jump into deep water. The sea here is clear and generally calm in good weather, with a temperature of around nineteen degrees in spring, rising to twenty-three or twenty-four degrees in late summer. Sun loungers and umbrellas can be rented, and there are showers and changing rooms. Lifeguards are on duty in the bathing season, which adds a degree of safety, and the facilities are generally kept clean and tidy.

One of the pleasures of such complexes is the setting. The sea laps against dark volcanic rock, the sky is wide, and on a clear day the cliffs and the green hills behind the coast form a fine backdrop. A café on the premises, the Barreirinha Bar Café, serves drinks, snacks, and light meals, and its terrace looks out over the ocean, which makes it a good place to stay for sunset. Entry costs a small fee, and the price is modest compared with beach clubs elsewhere, so the complex is popular with locals as well as visitors.

Because the water is deep and the seabed rocky, the complex is best for swimmers rather than for children who want to paddle. Water shoes are useful, and sea conditions can change, so check the flags and follow the lifeguards' advice. The complex tends to be crowded on hot summer weekends, and a weekday visit is quieter.

It suits swimmers, sunbathers, and families with older children, as well as anyone who wants a relaxed day by the sea after sightseeing in the city. The complex can be reached by bus or taxi from the centre of Funchal, and is not far from the old town.