Fanal Forest

Fanal is a high plateau in the north-west of Madeira, in the municipality of Porto Moniz, where a scattering of enormous old trees stands in open pasture, wrapped in mist for much of the year. The scene looks like something from a fairy tale: gnarled trunks covered in moss and ferns, twisted branches reaching in all directions, grass underfoot and cows wandering among the trees. It is among the most photographed places on the island, and one of the most atmospheric.

The trees are til, a species of laurel known botanically as Ocotea foetens, which grows only in the laurel forests of Madeira and the Canary Islands. Some of the specimens at Fanal are several centuries old, and their shapes, bent and knotted by wind and fog, give the place its character. The surrounding woodland belongs to the Laurisilva of Madeira, the ancient laurel forest that is a World Heritage site. Fanal itself was historically used as pasture, and the trees were left standing, which is why they have the open, spread-out look unlike the dense forest of the nearby slopes. The area lies within the Madeira Natural Park.

Weather is a major factor. Fanal sits at around 1,000 metres, where the clouds that move in from the Atlantic hit the plateau, so the trees are often hidden in fog, which creates the famous mood, but it can also hide the views entirely. Visits on clear days show a different side: open grassland, views down to the sea and the dark green of the surrounding slopes. It is cool and damp, even in summer, so bring a jacket and waterproofs. The ground can be muddy, and the grass is often wet.

Walking is a main activity. Paths cross the plateau, and several marked trails start here. The Vereda do Fanal, PR13, descends through the forest toward the north coast, and the Levada dos Cedros, PR14, follows an irrigation channel through dense forest. There are picnic areas with barbecue facilities, making Fanal a popular spot for family outings on weekends, and a small lake that forms in winter. The road up from Porto Moniz or Ribeira da Janela is winding and narrow, and driving in fog requires care. There is no regular public transport, so most visitors come by rental car or on guided tours.

For the best experience, go early in the morning or on a weekday, when it is quieter and the light is soft. Respect the animals and plants, keep to the paths and take your rubbish with you. The forest is free to visit. It suits photographers, walkers and anyone who enjoys atmospheric landscapes, and it is a good complement to a day at Porto Moniz and its natural pools.