Madalena Do Mar

Madalena do Mar is a small village on the south coast of Madeira, in the municipality of Ponta do Sol, set on a narrow shelf between the cliffs and the sea. It is the kind of place that the main tourist routes bypass, with a pebble beach, a tiny harbour and a church that is the centre of the community, and it offers a gentler and more local experience than the busier resorts. The name refers to Mary Magdalene, and the word mar, sea, is added to distinguish it from other places with the same name.

The village is known for its bananas. The southern coast of Madeira is sheltered and sunny, and the narrow terraces, known as poios, are planted with banana plants, which fill the slopes around the village with their broad, glossy leaves. The Madeira banana is smaller than the supermarket variety and has a more intense, sweeter flavour. The fruit is harvested throughout the year, with a peak in summer and early autumn, and you may see workers carrying bunches down steep paths or covering the bunches with blue plastic bags to protect them from wind and insects. A walk through the plantations on the paths that cross the terraces, sometimes called the banana route, gives a close view of how the crop is grown, with views of the sea between the leaves.

The seafront is simple and pleasant. A pebble beach, a small pontoon used by fishermen and divers, and a short promenade give the village a modest waterfront, and there are a few cafes and restaurants serving fresh fish and local dishes, including espetada, grilled beef on a laurel skewer, and the island's bolo do caco, a round flatbread served with garlic butter. The sea is clear, and snorkelling and swimming are popular in summer, though the water can be rough when the swell is up, so check conditions.

The village lies a short distance from Ponta do Sol, and the two can be easily combined, along with the village of Canhas and the high Paul da Serra plateau above. Buses run along the coast, and the area is also easy to reach by car, with the main road passing close by. Parking is limited in summer.

Madalena do Mar is quiet in the morning and evening, and best enjoyed at an unhurried pace. Wear sturdy shoes for the terraces and bring sun protection and water. The village suits walkers, families and travellers who want to see everyday life on the island, away from the main sights. It is free to wander and open at all times, and a few hours is enough for most visitors.