Nossa Senhora Da Luz Church

The Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Luz is the parish church of Ponta do Sol, on the sunny south-west coast of Madeira, and it is one of the oldest churches on the island. It was begun in the late 15th century, when the town was a boom town of the sugar trade and wealthy planters and merchants were investing in religious buildings, and it has been altered several times since, including a renovation of the facade in the early 18th century. The result is a mix of styles, with late Gothic and Manueline elements from the original construction and Baroque additions from later periods.

The exterior is plain, with white walls and dark volcanic stone around doors and windows, and a square bell tower at one side. Inside, the church has a single wide nave leading toward the high altar, with a wooden ceiling and gilded carved woodwork, or talha dourada, that glows warmly in the half light. Painted tile panels, azulejos, line parts of the walls, adding blue and white colour. Side chapels and altarpieces show the work of local craftsmen, many of them from the period when the island's sugar wealth supported a thriving artistic life.

The most unusual feature is a baptismal font covered in green glaze. It is in the Mudéjar style, a craft tradition of Moorish origin that spread through the Iberian peninsula and is known for glazed ceramics and geometric decoration, and it is a rare survivor of the early island. Pieces of this kind show the cultural exchanges that came with the Atlantic trade, and the font attracts the attention of those who know where to look.

The church stands close to the seafront and the old centre, so it is easy to visit on a walk through town. Nearby are the pebble beach, the old harbour, and the cultural centre dedicated to the writer John Dos Passos, whose family came from Madeira. Entry to the church is free, but it is an active place of worship, so visitors should dress modestly, avoid disturbing services, and keep voices low. Opening times are irregular and depend on services, so the interior may be closed at times.

The church suits history readers, art lovers, and anyone interested in the early history of Madeira. A visit takes about twenty minutes and goes well with a stroll along the waterfront and a meal at a seaside restaurant.