Ponta Do Sol Pebble Beach

Ponta do Sol, whose name means the point of the sun, has a good claim to be the sunniest town in Madeira. It lies on the south-west coast, sheltered from the northern clouds by the mountains behind, and the weather here is often bright when the north is grey. The beach is not sand but a long curve of dark pebbles and stones, worn smooth by the Atlantic, that crunch underfoot and warm quickly in the sun. It is a local beach in the best sense, with families, fishermen, and swimmers using it more than tour groups.

The sea can be rough, since the shore drops steeply and waves roll in from the Atlantic, so swimming requires care and attention to conditions. Many visitors prefer to sit on the pebbles, watch the sea, and enjoy the setting, which is dramatic: tall green cliffs rise behind the town, and terraces of banana plants and sugar cane climb the slopes. Sunset is the best time, when the light turns golden and the cliffs glow, and the small restaurants along the promenade fill up. Wear sandals or water shoes if you plan to enter the water, because the pebbles can be hot and awkward.

The town itself has a long history. Ponta do Sol was among the earliest places settled on Madeira, and in the 15th and 16th centuries it was a centre of sugar production, an industry that brought the island its first wealth. The parish church of Nossa Senhora da Luz, built in that period, still stands near the centre. A cultural centre is dedicated to John Dos Passos, the American novelist who had Madeiran roots and visited the town, and the municipality hosts a small film festival. A pier and a seafront walkway link the beach with the town centre.

The beach is easy to combine with other places in the area. Madalena do Mar, a small coastal village, lies a short drive away, and the high plateau of Paul da Serra offers walks and views at the other extreme of altitude. The parish of Canhas also lies within the municipality.

It suits travellers who like authentic, unpolished places, photographers, and anyone looking for a sunny base on the island's south-west. Bring a towel and water, and check sea conditions before swimming.