Manteigaria (Lisbon)

Manteigaria is a Lisbon bakery devoted to one thing, the pastel de nata, the custard tart that has become a symbol of Portuguese pastry. The name means roughly the butter shop, which fits a business whose reputation rests on flaky, buttery pastry and a rich custard filling. It started in the Bairro Alto area and later opened more branches, including one near the Cais do Sodré waterfront on Avenida 24 de Julho, close to the lively streets of the old docks.

The pastel de nata has a long history. The tart is linked to the monks of the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, who, in the early 19th century, sold sweets made from egg yolks to raise money after the religious orders were dissolved. The Pastéis de Belém bakery, opened in 1837, still produces its own version. Today every pastry shop in Lisbon makes them, and there is steady debate about who makes the best. Manteigaria belongs to the newer wave of bakeries that put the baking process on show, with the ovens and bakers visible from the counter, so you can watch trays of fresh tarts come out.

A good tart should have a thin, crisp pastry made of many layers, a creamy but not runny filling, and a surface blistered with dark patches from the heat of the oven. Locals often eat them warm, standing at the counter with a small coffee, a bica, and sprinkle on cinnamon and powdered sugar from the shakers provided. Eating one fresh from the oven is a very different experience from one that has been sitting in a display case. The bakery is small, so you may need to queue briefly, and the line moves quickly.

The branches are placed within easy reach of Lisbon's main walking areas. The Cais do Sodré location is near the Time Out Market, the Pink Street nightlife area, and the riverfront, while the Bairro Alto and Bica branches are in a hilly district of narrow streets and viewpoints. Hours differ between branches and change with the season, so check before making a special trip.

It suits anyone who wants a quick sweet stop, food lovers comparing versions of the tart, and visitors who like to see where food is made. Buying a half-dozen to share is a good way to try them.