Time Out Market Lisbon

Time Out Market is the most visited food hall in Lisbon, installed in the Mercado da Ribeira beside the Cais do Sodré station and the Tagus. The big iron-and-glass hall on Avenida 24 de Julho opened in the late 19th century as the city's main fresh-produce market, and part of it still functions as a traditional market for fruit, vegetables, fish and flowers. In 2014, the other half was taken over by the city's Time Out magazine team and turned into a showcase for the best of Lisbon's food.

The idea is simple. Instead of booking a table in one restaurant, you walk around the hall, look at the counters, and pick from a large number of stalls, many of them run by well-known restaurants and chefs, or by long-established small businesses chosen by the magazine's editors. Food is served at the counter and eaten at long communal tables in the centre of the hall, so groups can share a mix of dishes. The choice goes from traditional Portuguese food such as grilled fish, bacalhau, sardines and bifanas to burgers, pizza, sushi and Asian dishes, with a section devoted to desserts, wine and beer. Manteigaria, a bakery that is famous for its warm pastéis de nata, is one of the well-known names, and it is worth trying a custard tart straight from the oven.

The atmosphere is lively, noisy and informal. At peak lunch and dinner hours and at weekends, queues form at the popular stalls and it can be hard to find a seat, so arrive earlier or later than the usual meal times. Prices are higher than in a typical neighbourhood tasca, since you are paying for the convenience and the setting, but portions are generous and quality is generally good. Most stalls accept cards. There are also shops selling food products and a space for events, and the company runs cooking workshops and tastings from time to time.

The market works well as a first meal in the city, or as a rainy-day option, since it is entirely under cover. It is a convenient place to try several things at once, which is helpful for groups with different tastes, and for people who want to sample Portuguese dishes without committing to a long sit-down meal. If you want something quieter and more local, the neighbourhood around the Cais do Sodré has plenty of small restaurants and bars, and the nightlife of the Pink Street begins just outside. Alfama, the Baixa and the castle of São Jorge are all within a short trip by tram, bus or on foot, so this is a good stop between sightseeing.

Entry is free, and the market is open daily until late in the evening. Check the website for current hours and for events, which can include live music and festivals. Some visitors prefer to explore the working half of the market first, to see the produce, before eating in the food hall.