Moliceiro Boat Ride

The moliceiro is the traditional boat of the Ria de Aveiro, the shallow lagoon behind the coast, and a ride on one is the standard way to see the canals of Aveiro. The boat is long, narrow, and flat-bottomed, with a sharply upswept bow and stern, designed to glide over the shallows of the lagoon. It was developed in the 19th century to collect moliço, the seaweed and water plants that grow in the lagoon, which farmers spread on the sandy fields of the coast as fertiliser. Teams of men raked the weed from the water by hand, loaded it onto the boats, and brought it ashore, and for generations the moliceiros were the working craft of the region.

The colourful decoration is what makes them recognisable. The high prow and stern are painted with bright panels showing scenes, sometimes religious, sometimes humorous, and sometimes a little rude, with verses or proverbs in local dialect. Each boat has its own design, and the paintings were a way for the owners to express their character. Once the use of seaweed as fertiliser declined and chemical fertilisers took over, the boats were no longer needed for work, and many were abandoned. They were saved by the growth of tourism, and now they carry passengers along the canals of the city.

The usual trip lasts around forty-five minutes. Boats leave from quays near the central canal, in the Art Nouveau district, and glide past the city's pastel buildings, bridges, and small squares. A guide explains the history of the boats and the city, and in some cases a commentary is available in several languages. The route passes houses decorated with tiles and iron balconies, a market hall, and views of the old salt pans in the distance. Departures usually take place when a boat has enough passengers, and queues may form in the high season, so allow some flexibility.

Prices vary and should be checked at the quay, and some operators offer longer trips into the lagoon or to the salt pans. Bring sun protection and a light jacket, since the breeze on the water can be cool, and keep your hands inside the boat while passing under low bridges.

The ride suits families, couples, and anyone who wants a quick introduction to the town. Afterwards, try the sweet egg pastry known as ovos moles, which is the speciality of Aveiro.