Monte Toboggans

The toboggans of Monte are one of the oldest tourist attractions in Madeira, and also one of the strangest: a ride in a wicker basket on runners, steered by two men in white, down a steep road from the hilltop village of Monte toward Funchal. The tradition is real transport history. Before roads and cars, the people of Monte, which lies about 550 metres above the sea, needed a way to get down to the city, and in the middle of the 19th century, residents began to use sledges for the descent.

The sledges, called carros de cesto, basket cars, are built from wicker, a craft with deep roots on Madeira. The willow is grown in the hills near the village of Camacha, which has been the centre of the island's wickerwork industry for more than a century, and the baskets are woven by hand, with high backs and cushioned seats for two passengers, and fixed to two wooden runners. The runners are smoothed and greased, so that the sledge slides over the cobbled road, and ropes at the front allow the men who guide it to steer and brake. Making and repairing the vehicles is a skilled trade, and the craftsmen are proud of it.

The men who operate the sledges are the carreiros, and they have become a symbol of the island. They wear white trousers and shirts and a flat straw hat with a ribbon, a costume that has barely changed, and they run beside or behind the sledge, pushing it, steering with ropes and braking with their rubber-soled boots on the road. It takes strength, balance and practice, and the carreiros usually belong to families that have done the work for generations. Their skill is the reason the ride feels more thrilling than dangerous, even when the sledge picks up speed on the steeper stretches.

In the past, the toboggan was a way to get to town, and in the 20th century, it became a ride for visitors. Famous guests, among them royalty and writers, have tried it, and it has remained part of any visit to the island. The route today is shorter than the original run, ending at Livramento, a village on the way down, where the sledges are loaded on trucks to be brought back up. From there, passengers can take a taxi or a bus on to Funchal, or walk down the hill.

A few practical thoughts: the ride lasts only a few minutes, and the prices are high for its length, so many see it as an experience rather than a journey. Queues can be long at midday, and it is best to go in the morning. Wear flat shoes, and keep bags and cameras secure. The ride can be cancelled in wet weather. It suits families, couples and visitors who enjoy a bit of old-fashioned fun.