National Palace Of Mafra

The Palácio Nacional de Mafra is the largest palace in Portugal and one of the most ambitious buildings of the Baroque age in Europe. It lies about forty kilometres north-west of Lisbon, near the coast, and it was begun in 1717 by King João V, who had promised to build a convent if his wife, Maria Ana of Austria, gave birth to an heir. The project grew far beyond the original idea. With money from Brazilian gold and diamonds, the king commissioned a palace, a basilica, and a monastery on a gigantic scale, and thousands of workers were employed over many years. UNESCO inscribed the Royal Building of Mafra, with its garden and hunting park, on the World Heritage List in 2019.

The architect was João Frederico Ludovice, a German-born goldsmith who had trained in Rome and brought Italian Baroque ideas to Portugal. The long facade, with the basilica in the centre and the royal wings at either side, is one of the broadest in Europe. The basilica, consecrated in 1730, is faced in pale local limestone and marble in several colours, with statues by Italian sculptors, and it has six organs. The two towers on the front hold carillons of dozens of bells, which are played on special occasions and are among the largest in the world.

Inside the palace are long corridors, state rooms, and the king's and queen's apartments, decorated in Baroque and later styles. A hunting room, with furniture made of antlers, is a surprising curiosity. The pharmacy and the infirmary, with its small chapel where the sick could follow Mass from their beds, show the practical side of the vast convent, which housed hundreds of Franciscan friars. The kitchen and other service rooms are also on view.

The library is a highlight. Its long barrel-vaulted hall, lined with two tiers of carved wooden shelves, holds more than thirty thousand books from the 18th century and earlier, and its marble floor, in a pattern of coloured stones, adds to the grandeur. As in other old libraries, bats are said to live there at night and protect the books from insects.

The palace is large, so allow at least half a day, wear comfortable shoes, and check the opening days and prices before going, since there is usually a weekly closing day. It suits history readers, architecture lovers, and families. Mafra is near the beaches of Ericeira, which makes it easy to combine with a seaside stop.