Thermal Hydrotherapy Circuit In The Azores

The Azores are a volcanic archipelago, and on São Miguel the ground still delivers heat in the form of springs, steam, and mineral water. Turning that heat into a restful experience is a long tradition in the valley of Furnas, and the best-known setting for it is the Terra Nostra Park, a large botanical garden that includes a thermal pool and several smaller jacuzzi-style pools. The idea of a hydrotherapy circuit is simple: you move from one pool to another, soaking in water of different temperatures and mineral content, with rests in between, in the way that thermal spas have worked since Roman times.

The centrepiece is the large pool at the centre of the garden. Fed by a hot spring rich in iron, it is a rusty, orange-brown colour and holds a temperature of around thirty-five to forty degrees through the year. The water is slightly cloudy and has a distinctive mineral smell, and it is reputed to be good for the skin and muscles. Around it, several smaller pools or jacuzzis offer a different temperature or a gentler flow, and bathers can alternate between them. Tall trees, ferns, and camellias surround the pools, so the setting is shaded and quiet, and in the damp Azorean weather the steam rising from the water gives the place a magical atmosphere.

The garden itself is a reason to come. It was begun in the late 18th century by the American consul Thomas Hickling, who built a summer house here, and it was enlarged in the 19th century by a Portuguese viscount who brought in plants from around the world. Today it holds thousands of species, including tree ferns, cycads, magnolias, and a large collection of camellias, and winding paths lead through the grounds. A grand art-deco hotel on the site dates from the 1930s. Many visitors walk through the garden before and after bathing.

Practical points are important. The iron-rich water stains light fabrics and swimwear a rusty colour, so wear an old swimsuit and bring a towel and a plastic bag. Showers are available, and it is wise to rinse off after bathing. The park has set opening hours and an entrance fee that includes the thermal pool, so check the details beforehand. It can be busy in the middle of the day, and early morning or late afternoon is more peaceful, while a soak on a cool, rainy day is particularly rewarding.

The circuit suits adults and families who want to unwind, and it combines well with a visit to the Furnas fumaroles and a local cozido lunch.